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Beach and Water Detecting Tips

I highly recommend getting a loop angle support for your coil. These supports will keep your coil at the correct angle to the ground while searching even when fighting the surf.
When metal detecting in the surf, use a long handled scoop to dig your finds. The scoops with a curved "loop" handles are great because they will give the best leverage and tend not to turn when digging. If you aren't using a wood handled scoop, attach some foam rubber to the handle - it will keep the scoop upright in the water if you drop it.
When hunting in dry beach sand, using a wire mesh beach scoop instead of the scoops with the punched holes makes it easier to sift the sand out, especially if the sand is a bit damp from rain or mist.
If you tend to get tired quickly, get a long handled wire mesh beach scoop. These scoops allow you to dig without crouching or bending over, this saves energy allowing you to detect longer without discomfort. I use one from Reilly's Treasured Gold.
When hunting on the beach, take along a stout screwdriver in addition to your short handled beach scoop. If you hit a layer of shell you can use the screwdriver as a pick to get through - just be careful about possibly scratching your find.
Hunt the towel line. On most beaches there is a strip of beach just above the high tide mark where the majority of beach goers set down their towels and chairs. This can be one of the most productive areas to search and since it is in the dry sand it is very easy to dig targets. This is typically one of the first areas I hunt on a beach, lots of dropped coins and a good chance of jewelry.

Use an electronic pinpointer, it will drastically cut down digging time and help prevent scratching good finds. Some are waterproof or can easily be waterproofed to use underwater as well.

White's BeachHunter ID Tips

The best way to carry your Beachhunter is to either hip or chest mount the machine. You should have received a yellow and black nylon pouch with your unit, to use it unhook the control box from the handle and slip the control box into the pouch, secure it with the plastic clasps. Slip a belt through the loops to carry it at your waist. To chest mount you will need an additional strap to hang around your neck.
To get the best depth with your unit, you need to run it on as high of sensitivity as you can. I am lucky being in South West Florida that I can typically run at MAX sensitivity in the dry sand and just above the preset in the wet without getting false signals.
One of the main issues with the BeachHunter is that the coil floats, there are several ways to stop the coil from floating including attaching a sand-filled sock to the lower rod, using ankle weights, etc. Since I hipmount the unit the floating coil is not really that big of an issue, additionally I do a lot of regular beach hunting with the unit so the lighter coil is nice in that regard.
Make sure to clean your unit thoroughly after submersing it in salt water. Taking the time to do this will keep your machine looking like new for a long time and protect any parts from the corrosive effects of salt water. Make sure to separate the lower rod and rinse the inside of the whole shaft assembly. After rinsing and drying the control box, remove the battery compartment plug then rinse off the plug and dry.

White's Spectrum XLT Tips

Spectrum XLT owners can find custom programs on the Web. Just do a search from your favorite search engine on "XLT custom programs", you will be sure to find some.
Investing in a small loop coil is well worth it. I have hunted trash packed parks with my XLT with 5.3 coil with very good results. The larger coils just don't allow you to separate out the good targets well enough in areas of heavy trash. If you can pick one up a used one on e-bay or a treasure hunters classified section it can save you $40-$60 bucks. On the topic of extra coils, getting an additional lower shaft makes swapping out coils a lot easier, they are relatively inexpensive.

Research Tips

To find the best detecting spots in your area, head to the local history section of your town or city library. You will find information on where the early residents of your area lived and congregated.
A great way to find virgin detecting spots is to read old newspapers from your area. Most libraries have copies of early newspapers on microfiche for you to read, when you find interesting articles you can typically print them for a nominal fee. Look for local fairs, concerts, religious events, etc. the location of any type of gathering may yield results.

General Detecting Tips

I get a lot of inquiries from people just starting out in the hobby asking about what type of detector they should buy. There is no canned answer to this question as it depends on what type of detecting you want to do, where you will be detecting and how much you want to spend. I typically recommend getting a less expensive/mid range detector from a quality manufacturer, even if that means spending a little more than you wanted to, or buying a used machine. Although each detectorist will argue their brand/machine is the best, even the cheapest detector (if working properly) will find the goodies if you learn the machine and have patience.
Read everything you can find about your detector. This includes reviews, personal web sites, technical papers, books, etc. You will probably be surprised about how much is written about your detector of choice. Besides it being fun reading how others are finding great stuff, it is an easy way to learn more than you might be able to on your own.
Like a lot of detectorists, I practice detecting in park and school playgrounds with sand or wood-chips under the swings and monkey-bars. It is easy digging and there are typically a lot of targets. Most detectorists will only hit the hi traffic areas: the swing sets, under the monkey bars, etc. This allows the open areas and perimeter to accumulate targets. Next time you are out, give the perimeter and those open areas a few passes - I think you will be surprised.
I wasn't able to get really experienced with my detectors until I created a test garden to experiment with detector settings on known targets. Find a spot on your yard free of metal items and away from interference like buried lines. "plant" coins and trash items at various depths. Make sure you plant some trash items near to or partially covering good items. When finished, play with the settings on your detector(s) to learn how they effect what you will find in the field. It is especially important to know how your detector reacts to trash items partially covering good targets.
Don't be afraid of asking permission to search the yards of private homes. They are the last and largest untouched areas to detect. The best (and safest) way to ask permission is to write the home owners a letter, then follow up with a phone call if you have their number. The worst that can happen is they say no, if they do move on to the next one. If your county tax collector has an aerial viewer/GIS system in place on their web site, using it to find property owners is very easy.
Practice retrieving objects in your own yard before you make a bad name for yourself on someone else's property. There is simply no reason to dig sloppy holes. Carefully pinpoint your target and mark the spot with a small item like a golf tee (wood or plastic). If your detector can read depth, use it... Items 0-4 inches deep should be easily retrieved with a blunt tip screwdriver if you pinpoint with accuracy. Items deeper than that will probably need to be plugged. Cut a deep 4-6 inch wide three sided plug then flip the plug open towards the uncut side. Use a drop cloth and place any dirt from the hole onto the cloth. Retrieve the target, making sure to check for additional targets then slide the dirt back into the hole and tamp down the sod back into place. If the soil is dry it is a good idea to keep a jug of water/fertilizer mixture and apply to any holes have dug.


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